The Gulf of Morbihan from Larmor-Baden

The Gulf of Morbihan is a shallow inland sea about twenty kilometres across, connected to the Atlantic by a single narrow mouth and scattered with wooded islands — locals say as many as there are days in the year, which is generous but conveys the impression. Water, pine, low granite and moored boats, all of it in a soft light quite unlike the open coast fifteen minutes west.

Larmor-Baden is the easiest way in on foot. The village sits on the northern shore with a small harbour, and the coast path runs out to the Pointe du Berchis, where the ground drops to a shingle shore and the islands stack up across the water. It is a fifteen-minute walk from the car park, and it gives the classic gulf frame without a boat.

High water and low water are two different photographs. At high tide the islands sit in blue water and the frame is calm; at low tide the mud and oyster tables come out, boats lean over and the whole thing turns into texture. Neither is better — just know which you are getting.

Boats leave Larmor-Baden, Vannes, Port-Navalo and Locmariaquer for tours of the gulf and for the Île aux Moines and the Île d'Arz, which both allow easy walking on shore. The cairn of Gavrinis, on its own island opposite Larmor-Baden, is a ticketed guided visit with a separate crossing. Timetables and sailing days change with the season and the weather — check before building a session around one.