The harbour, the breakwater and the château

The château sits on the point where the village meets the lake, and it is the picture that sells Yvoire. It has been private for centuries and is closed to visitors, which turns out not to matter at all: the only worthwhile angle is from outside anyway. From the fishermen's harbour, or from the end of the breakwater, the walls rise directly out of the water with the keep above them and the Swiss shore across the lake behind — three clean bands of stone, water and distance.

Stand your subject on the breakwater with the château over their shoulder for the wide frame, then turn a hundred and eighty degrees: from the same stones you get open lake, moored boats and, on a still morning, a mirror. Swans and ducks work this corner constantly and will walk into the shot; that is usually a gift rather than a problem.

Light comes from the east over the lake, so the château is front-lit at sunrise and in silhouette at the end of the day. Early morning is also the only time the harbour is quiet — the first day boats arrive mid-morning and the quay becomes a thoroughfare.

Boats: the Belle Époque fleet calls here in season on the crossings to Nyon on the Swiss shore, and a paddle steamer coming alongside is worth timing a frame for. Check the current sailings before you plan around one; the winter timetable is a completely different service.