The harbour view from the Rock

Walk up the Rampe Major, or along the ramparts, to the edge of the Place du Palais and the whole principality lines up in front of you: Port Hercule below, its quays packed with yachts, and Monte-Carlo climbing the slope behind it, block on block, to the bare limestone of the mountains. A small stone sentry box stands on the parapet here, and it makes the frame — a couple at the wall with the sentry box on one side and the harbour falling away on the other is the Monaco picture.

The palace square itself is wide and paved, lined with old cannons, and the palace front is a clean cream backdrop. It is also where every visitor comes, so timing decides the session: early morning is calm, and the changing of the guard just before noon fills the square completely.